Over the last 15-20 years, many U.S. natives have added a new dish to their food vocabulary: pupusas. But not everyone understands why these Salvadoran snacks started showing up around major U.S. cities—and how our own government played a role in getting them there.

A deep-dive chat with chefs Ann Kim, Jamie Malone, and Christina Nguyen, which is published in print in Vol. 1, No. 1 of Meal Magazine.